Mendoza Día 3

M 11.26.12

• here we go day 3...and what a beautiful morning to start us out!

• today we began at a smaller bodega not far from Mendoza city
• on our drive down, we came across these guys:

• super safe, fun idea
• winery 1 of the day: Domain St. Diego in Maípu

• this very well could have been my favorite
• Domaine St. Diego is a family-owned and run vineyard that started as a family project about 20 years ago, and although they keep it small, it has been very successful over the years
• we got to meet the boss of the domaine, Angel Mendoza (yes, his last name is the same as the province/city)
• his daughter, Maria Laura, greeted us at the gate and is in charge of the tours and tastings
• it is clear that the family's passion lies in the growing process and quality of the vines...

• this was the only place that took us through the actual vineyards and thoroughly explained the vines, leaves, grapes, soil, irrigation system, etc...

• and Maria Laura was very enthusiastically willing to answer any questions we had

• the family opted to keep the olive trees when they took over...the shade that the trees give allows for growth of a specific kind of grape (used in sparkling wines) that thrives better in this condition

• because it is a rather small estate, many of the vines are planted on two levels, doubling the grape production

• unfortunately Gustavo had to rush us a bit in order to get us to our tour at the next vineyard on time
• I think we could have spent another hour walking the grounds...next time

• we had to get started with our tasting!
• olive oil is also produced here, and after tasting it, we couldn't help but go home with a bottle

• we then sampled their sparkling white wine, Brut Xero, followed by Pura Sangre (80% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignón), and finally Paradigma (60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon)
• these wines are only sold at their vineyard, so of course we had to purchase one (we chose Paradigma)

• we even got little snacks like walnuts from their walnut tree, raisins (how fitting) and candied lemon peels...snacking is an important part of wine tasting...don't want to get too tipsy!

• the family's parilla/picnic area for Sunday meals

• this is not a chicken coop, but a play house for the grandkids

• this is the building where they turn the family jewels into vino

• Bodega 2: Catena Zapata in Luján de Cuyo
• this is probably the one I looked forward to most because the book I had been reading was written by the daughter of the owner
• having this book along with us on our wine tours was such a treat...the photos really capture how enchanting this part of Argentina really is

• we arrived a tad late for our tour, but caught up with the group in this room:

• where several bottles of their finest wines are stored
• then we moved into the barrel room...as you can see from the photo above, the winery is in the shape of a Mayan pyramid to not only honor one of the most advanced Indian cultures of the Americas, but also to stand out among Europe and North American wine competitors...

• the interior is circular and there is a central shaft from top to bottom, allowing sunlight to shoot straight through the building

• we then made our way to the top of the pyramid where we were able to enjoy a magnificent view

behind the clouds are the Andes

• Mendoza...a place to grow.
• Mendoza...fields of opportunity
• just like Iowa...?

• time for what is almost always my favorite part...into the tasting room we go

• our tasting included: 

the horseshoe

the tongue

• Catena Zapata had the most informative tasting of the trip
• our guide is studying to be a sommelier, so she was extremely educated with the whole technique, for example:  the way we should introduce our palette to wine for the first time, how we should smell the wine before and after tasting, what flavors to look for, and how a wine can have a completely different flavor after trying two others then going back to the first...crazy!

• really loved our experience

• then we were off to our third and final winery of the day, Ruca Malén, also in Luján de Cuyo, where we had lunch 

• we opted against the tour and went straight for the  tasting menu
• we had heard good things about this meal, not only from friends, but also from Gustavo...it was made up of the following:

• Appetizer 1: mini grilled squash ravioli with pickled leek and lemon on a lemon emulsion and Arbequina olive oil, paired with: Ruca Malén Chardonnay 2011

• again, bread rocks in Mendoza...and I was loving this guy with his cute little bread basket refilling our delicious fresh bread when we went empty

• Appetizer 2: conciglionis filled with smoked aubergines served with melted cheese and beetroot cream, paired with: Yauquén Bonarda 2011

• Entrée: traditional locro (yellow corn and wheat) salad, sausage (chorizo), confited in wine sace, smoked pumpkin cream and toasted pumpkin seeds, paired with: Ruca Malén Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

• this dish was served on a piece of glass with a piece of paper taped to it...the paper diagramed our meal

• Main Dish: grilled beef tenderloin medallion with a potato biscuit, julienne vegetables, black olive confit and caramelized onions with cinnamon, paired with: Ruca Malén Malbec 2010 (pairs with the texture of the beef) and Kinién Malbec 2009 (brings in the black olives and raisins...? this is what the paper says)
• the server was willing to refill my wines a tiny bit so I could try the trick the sommelier taught us at the last place...taste, taste, taste, go back to the first and taste again...

• Dessert: pear and chocolate crumble, fresh pear in wine perfumed with cassis, fresh oranges and orange zest...

• paired with: Nespresso coffee, cream and infusions (?), petit fours (those little cookies next to the coffee)

• loved the lavender next to the vines

• saying goodbye to the vineyard scene...

• after another major wine-induced nap, we took our leftover La Azul, bottle of wine, picked up some snacks, and headed to Plaza Independencia

our view while enjoying wine and snacks in the park

• checked out the hippie band for a minute

• then made our way to a recommended restaurant in search of baby goat

again, note the bread basket

• aside from trucha, chivito, is another typical dish in this region, so naturally we wanted to try it
• here is our baby goat quinoa veggie delight:

• we really enjoyed the character of this restaurant, Florentino Bistro, especially the outdoor eating area

• and to top off the night, you guessed it, más helado!

• Mendoza, we love you