An Iowan and Wisconsinite found themselves in Buenos Aires, Argentina for two years.
He did some commercial insurance brokering, she did some English teaching, then they moved back to Chicago with a baby porteño.
Here's their little story...

Monday, March 4, 2013

Drive through Molinos and Cafayate to Coronel Moldes

F 2.1.13
  • after getting recommended directions for the best, most scenic route to Molinos from the nice lady at Finca La Paya, we set out for Day 2 of massive driving
early morning sun
wanna switch?  I miss my bike

  • we drove around the first loop of the 8-shaped curve, and came across wool vendors on the side of the road, which we had read about and been told about
  • we were shown how the weaving works
  • we ooo'd and aw'd at the beautiful textiles
  • and played dress up for a while

my dad's best Clint Eastwood impression
  • then we made a killing...purchasing at least a few scarves and shawls
  • then we continued on our drive...around scary, rocky turns, past old towns and churches, and through amazing scenery

church in Seclantas
  • we knew we were heading in the right direction when spotting vineyards...Cafayate is second to Mendoza in wine production, but they are famous for their white wine, Torrontés
  • we made our way around the second loop of the figure 8 and into the town of Molinos, which little did we know, this place would be where we'd spend much of our afternoon
  • first we encountered this horse parade/procession into the town's church



playing his accordion! 

horses tied up outside the church, chillin'
  • then we came across an artisan market that was just setting up near the park, so we decided to grab a bite to eat (we ate A LOT of empanadas during their visit, as we should have)
homemade by some lady in town selling them out of a shoebox
  • then somebody (not naming names) decided that he/she wanted to purchase one of the weavings/textiles that a boy appeared to almost be finished with...
  • ...so he/she wondered...when would it be done? looks like 10-15 minutes? ok we'll be back
  • so we checked out a museum

  • then went back to pick up the piece of art...but it still wasn't done...and still wasn't done...
  • I think it maybe took a couple hours for this poor little boy to complete it, but the end result was totally worth it (mom and dad, I need the photo of you guys with your textile and the artist)
  • nevertheless, the long stop in Molinos was nice and relaxing...
  • we finally hit the road again
  • and came across more vineyards, more rocks, and more tricky roads




  • like this road...this road was a tricky one...we chose to ford the river without losing any bullets, wagon axles, oxen, or food...and nobody drowned
  • we spotted a good ol' John Deere on the side of the road...the owner nowhere in sight

several of my photos have Rick Feauto's arm and camera in them
taken on vivid setting...but in real life, it was vivid!
  • we kind of hoped to stop by La Angostura or Angastaco to tour around a bit and get a taste of some small wineries' vino, but we kind of missed them...
  • ...and instead stopped at a tiny place called La Bodeguita and bought a few bottles
  • dad didn't want to pay for the extra bottle deposit charge (since he didn't have an empty to replace it with), so can you guess what he did?
  • yes, he filled up his water bottle, coke bottle, and glass from Molinos with his beer in order to give the lady back her bottle and not have to pay extra...we love you dad
  • then finally made it to Cafayate...it was too late for most bodega tours, especially in English, so we had our own little tasting at a really nice bodega called El Esteco



road from El Esteco...storm starting to brew
  • mom found the horses (I think she'd really fit in in these parts)
  • dad found "free" grapes

hooking on the side of the road...we picked him up
  • we then attempted to squeeze in one more bodega before dinner
  • Bodega Nanni is conveniently located inside the downtown area of Cafayate...really nice place
  • unfortunately we arrived as they were closing up, but in true Feauto fashion, we managed to try a sip or two of wine, purchase a few bottles, and snap some shots before being kicked out (not really, but almost)



  • then it started down pouring, so we quickly found a restaurant to escape the flood:

that square plate is a picada
  • after our bellies were full of picada, steak, pasta, and salad, the storm calmed and we walked to the town center in search of the town's infamous helado
  • doesn't the church look cool at night?
  • after realizing the ice cream shop was actually in the opposite direction, we went back, found it, and  thoroughly enjoyed Los Helados de Miranda's famous wine ice creams (the owner's son is an artist and has some pretty cool paintings in the shop)
  • we had about an hour+ drive to our hotel in Coronel Moldes, so we drove off into the night and safely made it to our hotel, Finca Santa Anita 
  • Finca Santa Anita...super neat family-run farm and bed-and-breakfast...(you should really click on their site; Slow Food International awarded them for their food made from the produce of their organic orchard, as well as for their goat cheese, and biodiversity conservation...when I booked, I just knew it was a tobacco farm and thought my dad might like that) 
  • anyway, I think we can safely say we are 4 for 4 in regards to accommodations for our trip so far
mine and Jake's room had a loft! we slept down below, though ;)
  • this was another place we didn't really want to leave
  • there was so much to explore and activities offered such as trekking, horseback riding, and water sports on the nearby lake...
  • but unfortunately we arrived quite late that evening, and had to get up to Jujuy the next day
Sa 2.2.13
  • still, we woke up early to take in a bit of the sights and sounds of the farm


goat cheese in the making



oh pool, wish we had time to swim in you!
apparently this antique game was on some TV show on TLC?  Pawn Stars maybe?
  • then we sat down to a delicious, homemade breakfast of fresh goat cheese, breads, jams, OJ, and cereal


at first we thought this was super thick whole milk, then we realized it was fresh, sweet yogurt
this scrappy kitty crashed our breakfast
  • and even got a tour of the tobacco museum on the grounds

dad and his pipe guy
oil change anyone?
  • Carlos, the owner, continued our tour into the saddle room
  • this is where mom managed to score probably the most unique souvenir of the trip
in heaven
  • all along she had been asking gauchos and finca owners if they had any old horse objects (horse shoes, bits, ropes, etc.) that instead of tossing, they could give to her
  • most thought she was crazy (jk), or just didn't have anything to offer
  • but the owner of this finca, Carlos, graciously gifted my mom with a super cool, hand carved antique horse bit
  • now she has a great ornament to hang on her horseshoe tree at home! (mom, I need that photo, too! ;)
  • so long Finca Santa Anita! we truly enjoyed our quick stop...thank your for your wonderful hospitality...next time we promise to stay longer!
  • off to Jujuy province!

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